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stone pillar along with projected balconies amidst the lush greenery of the enchanted valley.
NOAH’S ARK
“History repeats itself”. What if a man with a divine vision and strong influence of his motherland takes you down the memory lane to relate the ancient saga washed away by the timeline, into the heart of the ocean?
Seems like a dive down the wreck of an ocean liner resting at the bottom, in peace. However, in reality here we are taking a glance at the pages of history left unturned, precisely, a detour of Goa and its unique architectural heritage. Land of blue seas and white sand beaches, it is the birthplace of a totally unique architectural style that exists nowhere in the rest of the world. The real charm and beauty of Goan architecture is the outcome of the marriage between the typical Indo-Portuguese architecture and its social scenario. The merger between the two brought such a zeal and enthusiasm among the people that it became a part of their life. Thinking about the architectural style the foremost images that come to our mind are those of splendid white washed cathedrals. These images are so overpowering that the original masterpiece of Goan houses has gradually washed away.
Attempts were made to revive those pages of history but in vain. With the passage of time, it became a provocative question to regain the ancient glory of Goan architecture. Among the likes of people who tried for the renaissance Ar. Gerard da Cunha was noteworthy. He has several prestigious resorts, townships, institutions and even private residences to his credit all over India. Nisha’s Play School of Goa, Nrityagram of Bangalore, Main building and a Library of Hampi’s Kannada University, Kutiram Tourist Resort of Bangalore, JVSL Township in Torangallu, Tourist Village in Kerala, are few of his important projects. However, for da Cunha, his heart weeps for the treasure trove of architectural endeavour that his motherland is losing very fast. The quintessential architect was conducting exhibitions on the houses of Goa as his contribution towards the renaissance. In a short time span, it reached such a zenith that he took it even worldwide. At that level of saturation, he needed to put the entire work under a single roof. The architect conceives that the Goans were looking for a new identity and so embarked on the experiment in architecture to produce something new and unseen anywhere in the world. And this saw the birth of the ‘Museum – Houses of Goa’.
It is a unique museum, which encapsulates for posterity the phenomenal outcome of the amalgamation of Eastern and Western architectural styles. Gerard has a simple philosophy behind his work. He understands the subject and treats it with his presence of mind to create a magnum opus like the ‘Museum – Houses of Goa’. He believes that one should work within the environment and the form of the structure should evolve from nature and construction techniques. When asked about how he has conceived the museum concept, the highly creative architect claims, “It is our own Goan style and being an architect, it is my responsibility to document the architecture as a local, who has thrived in this place”.
Located away from Panaji – Mapusa highway in the picturesque village Salvador do Mundo, amidst the lush greenery right after the turn from the famous O Coqueiro restaurant towards Torda village, this quaint yet one of a kind structure will definitely catch your attention. The museum stands in an enchanted valley and a genuine sacred grove shaped like an acute triangle.
PLAN & SECTION: Showing different levels
The architectural brief was simple and divided into four parts. “It had to create a village core with urban design considerations and a ‘Traffic Island’ to handle and control the traffic to Nisha’s Play School and organise the parking. It had also to house a museum of Traditional Goan Architecture and look ‘Crazy’ enough in the tradition of museum buildings like Bilbao, Guggenheim, which would seduce the local vegetable seller into buying a ticket”, says da Cunha.
The museum is a ‘modern’ three-storied triangular shaped load bearing building, built in exposed laterite stone with cost-saving technology evolved by the world-famous Architect Laurie Baker, Gerard’s role model. Aboard the museum, you will find yourself cocooned in an oasis of calm. The ambience inside is enchanting and enjoyable. It is like the discovery of ‘Paradise of Peace’ that makes one feel as if walking around in one’s own home. There is soft music backing up Gerard’s detailed description of each item, as only someone who is so deeply engrossed in things Goan can do.
At one level, it is a mere traffic island. The triangular shape was inappropriate, so he cut off the corners. He put in a tiny spiral staircase in the centre of the triangle, the only place it could fit. He then made the corners return through a corbel, the most basic of traditional structural system. He added a veranda on the south and part of the auditorium on the north, both simply supported and resting on props. “I have always firmly believed that geometry is the key to good architecture and this was going to be the litmus paper test”, says the eminent Architect.
The entire structure has a mysteriously large space inside. The mystery unfolds as we explore the building. Conceptualising even the smallest corner of the museum wall or the floor, which are filled with huge photographs, skilfully drawn maps, models of ancient houses, and collection of design pillars, windows of attractive shapes, carved doors and other furniture, even fabulous designs of tiles. He has skilfully converted the reception and the cafe on the ground floor into a semi-museum by displaying photos of kitchen and bathrooms of different Goan houses.
The first level depicts Goa in context of the world and then goes on to display the wealth of the Indo-Portuguese architecture of Goa. Besides, there is another panel created by famous cartoonist and Gerard’s friend Mario de Miranda, called ‘Glimpses of Goa’ where he sketched all the prominent historic events. The walls are neatly adorned with photographs, maps and plans, all a part of Gerard’s extensive research. There are computer terminals, which allow one to browse through more information, all at one’s sweet pace.
On the second floor, he delves into various details of Goan architecture: the doors, windows, railings, construction materials and furniture. There is also a massive French door and an impressive hat-stand, used in the yesteryears in aristocratic households, which are definitely worth a look. The panels in each corner take you around Goa’s famous houses. It also has a very unusual corner; rather odd in shape, this corner is the ‘relaxing point’ in the house. Thoughtfully, benches kept aside CD players give access to an amazing collection of Konkani and Portuguese music.
THE TRIANGULAR PERCEPTION: The museum corner showing the Goan masterpieces on one
side & computer terminal on the other with a triangular window at the end.
Autonomous,Goa
Climbing the winding steps to the topmost floor, we see rare ancient lamps, a machila, and a theatre with a seating arrangement for about 50 people. Here, Gerard conducts slide shows every evening, with an adaptable screen, taking you on an architectural tour right from the earliest mud-houses to the final amalgamation of Goan architecture. The structure is complete on this floor, with balcaos and pictures of the ancient houses. Every inch of the museum tells the story that emerged from the first sustained encounter between East and West that took place over 450 years ago.
The design of this structure is quite a matter, open to debate. Let us look at the Eastern view coming down the road; it looks like the ‘Titanic’, which the villagers call it. It could also pass off as a ‘Fish’, waiting to swallow you up, while for some, it looks like a ‘Bird’, as your angle of vision has changed because the level of the road has dropped. When asked why the metaphor of a ship, the Architect replies, “It was quite accidental, although beautiful, but when I noticed it, I played along and added the blue waves on the front facade”. Famous architect Balkrishna Doshi comments upon the structure, “It needs guts, imagination, love and concern to create such a museum. It is full of information and naturally raises basic questions of how culture evolves and what remains for further evolution”.
The name, ‘Noah’s Ark’ actually enriches the beauty and adds valour to the structure. Like a true Noah’s Ark, it has become an ‘icon’ which carries the specimen of every Goan house on an eventful voyage, a voyage to a never ending glory of the Goan architecture, spreading its hands wide open to treasure the uniqueness of the past, present and future in every sense of word – with a spice and taste of Goa ..........
